Helpful Guides and News

Timber Decay

Tue, 16 Dec 2025 09:24:55 GMT

The hidden cost in many homes...

Every year large sums of money are spent on repairing the damage caused by timber decay (rot). It can cost several thousand pounds simply to reinstate timber attacked by dry rot in a single house.

A considerable amount of this damage could be prevented if the conditions which favour this type of fungi were more generally understood and precautions taken to inspect for any outbreak.

Most outbreaks of dry rot are due to either faulty construction or to a lack of proper maintenance, in particular, defects in the rainwater disposal system. It can exist with no visible evidence on the surface of the wood.

Dry Rot

Dry rot is a common form of fungal decay in timber and one of the most serious.

The fungus feeds on softwood in moist and poorly ventilated areas and in conditions favourable to its growth, it will spread to seek new food sources i.e. sound timber.

It produces very light and minute spores which float about in the atmosphere; they come to rest on timber and destroy the fibres, leading to it becoming brittle and decayed along and across the grain creating a cubed effect on the surface of the timber.

Whilst fungus grows, it forms white cotton wool like cushions with patches of bright yellow and its feelers, that look like tree roots inn pattern, can creep across brickwork, stone, concrete or plaster to attack timber in other positions.

The fungus is likely to attack timber having moisture content in excess of 20%.

The following are areas most likely to suffer from dry rot:

1. In timber ground floor construction where there is no damp-proof course, or the damp proof course is defective and ventilation inadequate, e.g. blocked up or missing air bricks on the external wall.

2. Flat roof construction, which is usually unventilated.

3. Where timbers are built into brickwork or otherwise concealed, e.g. floor joists and timber lintels in old properties.

4. Timbers supporting parapet or valley gutters in pitched roofs.

5. In skirting’s, panelling and internal window shutter boxes in old houses. A slight waviness on the painted face of these materials can indicate that the back of the member has been attacked by dry rot.

6. Behind fixed kitchen wall and base cupboards with poor or no ventilation.

7. In basement construction where there is no damp proofing and poor ventilation.

Usually, the first indication of dry rot is the appearance of fruit bodies or spore dust. The fruit bodies have a fleshy consistency in the shape of a plate, about 300mm in diameter, appearing like a burnt pancake and growing out of cracks in a skirting or wall panelling. If the underfloor joists are badly affected by dry rot it will not always show on the floor boarding, especially if it has been covered with a permanent finish such as linoleum, vinyl or tiling.

A further indication of the presence of dry rot is a musty smell, the decay is well advanced before this occurs.

Wet Rot

Wet rot is the most common of the fungi and requires timber with a high moisture content, usually in excess of 25% to thrive, however, it cannot penetrate masonry and due to this, is usually localised.

Wet rot requires very damp conditions to germinate and a continuous supply of moisture for its existence, therefore, it is not common to find these inside buildings. Once the source of moisture is removed, the fungi will die.

Reports of wet rot in external joinery has increased in recent years. A high percentage of this is the result of rainwater penetration on the external faces and condensation on the internal faces of the element.

Window frames are a common area of damage, as are the cills and reveal boards.

Roof timbers are sometimes affected by wet rot resulting from defects in the roof covering, and this usually requires the replacement of defective timbers. The most vulnerable areas in a roof structure are under gutters and built in timbers. Built in floor joists are also at risk.

If you feel you may have timber decay or you feel your property is at risk, contact us.

Listed Buildings

Wed, 10 Dec 2025 14:12:43 GMT

What is a listed building?

What is a Listed Building?

A “Listed Building” is a building that is formally declared as being of special architectural or historic interest. “Building”, in this case, can mean structures such as market crosses, tomb stones, gate piers etc., as well as more conventional buildings. The “List” is effectively a register, identifying the buildings that have been “Listed” and is open to public inspection – the list may be inspected at the Planning and Development department of your local Council during their normal hours.

The purpose of the “List” is to identify buildings of special architectural or historic interest to make sure that their special interest is taken fully into account in decisions affecting their future, in order to preserve our heritage for future generations.

Who chooses which buildings should be “Listed”?

Central Government, the Department for Culture, Media and Sport (DCMS), decide which buildings are to be “Listed” based upon a set of nationally applied criteria, which take into account age, architectural form and historic interest. The majority of buildings that are “Listed” date from before 1840, though more, modern buildings, include C20th, can also be “Listed”, particularly the works of principal architects and buildings of outstanding quality.

Classification of Listed Buildings

Listed Buildings are classified in grades which reflect their relative importance in national terms as follows:-

Grade I

Buildings of exceptional quality and interest (only about 2% of Listed Buildings fall within this Grade), e.g. Richmond Castle.

Grade II *

Buildings of more than special interest (about 4% of Listed Buildings fall within this Grade), including buildings designed by prominent architects e.g. Middleton Lodge, designed by John Carr.

Grade II

Buildings of special interest, often reflecting the local vernacular style. As you may have gathered, these make up the majority of all Listed Buildings, approximately 94% of the List.

Most buildings on the statutory “List” were selected as part of a national re-survey carried out in this District during the 1980’s. There may be some buildings that were overlooked, or new information has become available affecting the decision whether to “List”. These buildings may be “spot listed” and added to the “List”.

Can you appeal against the Listing of a building?

Although there is no statutory right of appeal against “Listing”, you can apply to the Department of National Heritage if you feel that the building does not possess special architectural or historic interest. However, the Secretary of State will rarely agree to de-list a building and will only take into account its special architectural or historic interest.

How much of the building is Listed?

Very simply, all of it, both inside and outside, although some parts of the building may be more important than others. Anything fixed to the building is also “Listed”. There is a belief amongst some people that the exterior of a Listed building is more important than the interior, this is not the case.

Any building or structure (including free standing buildings or structures), within the grounds (curtilage), which was there before 1948 is also “Listed”.

The description in the official “List” is not intended to provide an inventory of all the features of importance, but simply a means of identifying the building.

What affect does this “Listed” status have on the building?

Any building which is “Listed” is given special protection and must not be demolished, extended or altered (internally or externally), in any way which affects its character, unless Listed Building Consent has first been granted.

This is an additional control to Planning Permission and applications should be made to the District Council using special Listed Building Consent Forms.

You are strongly recommended to discuss any proposals for alteration, extension or demolition (part or whole) of a Listed Building with the District Council’s Planning and Development Unit before any work is carried out. They will help you determine whether or not Listed Building Consent is required.

It is an offence to demolish (in part or whole), alter or extend a Listed Building without Listed Building Consent.

The penalties for this offence can be heavy, including fines or imprisonment.

Can Listed Buildings be demolished, altered or extended?

Yes. The fact that a building is “Listed” does not place an embargo on change, but there is a strong presumption in favour of preservation, and you will be required to justify any changes. It is also important to remember that Listed Building Consent (where required) must be obtained before you carry out any such work.

Demolition:

As the objective behind the “Listing” is to identify buildings worthy of preservation, consent for the partial or total demolition of a Listed Building will only be given in exceptional circumstances.

Alterations and extensions:

Many Listed Buildings can sustain some degree of alteration or extension, though the extent to which such changes can be accommodated will vary according to the quality and sensitivity of the building. You will need to justify any changes and design them carefully so as not to de-value the special architectural or historic interest of the building.

It is very important to understand that even quite minor works or changes can require Listed Building Consent. Always check with the District Council’s Planning and Development Unit before carrying out any work to a Listed Building.

What about maintenance?

Most buildings will require some maintenance and repair from time to time. This is no different for “Listed Buildings”, though the degree of care and attention to detail in carrying out repairs is likely to be greater. Repair rather than renewal is favoured, with the aim being to retain as much of the historic fabric as possible.

In many cases, minor repair and maintenance work using materials and detailing which match the original, can be carried out without the need for Listed Building Consent.

However, we advise you to check with the District Council’s Planning and Development Unit before you carry out any work.

What if I let my building fall into disrepair?

Owners have a responsibility to look after Listed Buildings properly and regular maintenance can prevent serious problems from arising. If, unfortunately, a Listed Building is allowed to fall into serious disrepair, the District Council can take action against the owners. It must be stressed that this form of action is only used as a last resort and the District Council would try to encourage an owner to carry out repairs on a voluntary basis, offering practical and technical advice if required.

In those cases, where formal action is required, the Council could service a Repairs Notice on the owners specifying that work needs to be done and by a given date.

If the owner fails to comply with the terms of the Repair Notice within the period specified, the Council may compulsorily repair the property (owners have a right of appeal against this action).

Where a Listed Building is unoccupied and neglected, the District Council can serve an Urgent Works Notice , carry out work themselves and reclaim the cost from the owner (again there are rights of appeal).

Are Grants available to help with repairs?

Limited discretionary Grants are available from the District Council to help owners tackle structural repairs as well as from other sources, for example, English Heritage. It is important to note that these Grants focus on essential structural repair and not maintenance or decoration.

For expert advice and surveying services contact:

Cowie Consulting Limited

Telephone: 01325 480424

Email: info@cowieconsulting.net

Keeping your home free from condensation

Wed, 10 Dec 2025 13:46:51 GMT

Beat moisture before it becomes mould...

Keeping your home free from condensation and mould

Everyday things like cooking, washing, bathing and even breathing cause moisture, which is released into the air.

Condensation can cause black mould on walls, furniture, clothes and curtains. The mould looks bad and can even damage your health – medical research has found links between mould, house dust mites and illnesses of the throat and lungs. The damp left by condensation will also damage plasterwork and timber windows.

What is condensation and what causes it?

Everyday things like cooking, washing, bathing and even breathing cause moisture, which is released into the air. The air can only hold a certain amount of water vapour – the warmer it is, the more it can hold. If this is cooled by contact with a cold surface such as a mirror, a window or even a wall, the water vapour will turn into droplets of water – condensation. This is what happens when the mirrors mist up in the bathroom.

What does condensation look like?

Every home gets condensation at some time – usually when lots of moisture and steam are being produced such as bath times, when cooking meals or washing clothes.

Fish tanks and indoor plants can also give rise to large quantities of moisture in the air.

It is quite normal to find your bedroom windows misted up in the morning after a cold night, which is to be expected and is not indicative of a serious condensation problem.

If your home never seems to be free from condensation, or you have mould growth as well, read on.

What can you do to reduce it?

1. Produce less moisture

Dry your washing outside the property whenever you can. You can also hang it in the bathroom, keeping the door closed and the window wide open.
Never use portable gas bottles or paraffin (flue less) heaters.
Permanently vent your tumble drier to the outside of your home, using a suitable kit recommended by the manufacturer of the appliance.
While cooking, always cover pans and don’t leave kettles boiling.

2. Ventilate well to remove moisture

When a room is in use, keep a small window and/or trickle vent open.
Ventilate bathrooms and kitchens.
Keep bathroom and kitchen doors closed even if they have extractor fans.
Ventilate cupboards and wardrobes. Do not overfill wardrobes, let the air circulate freely inside. For the same reason, cut holes in the back panel of the wardrobe and move it 50mm away from the surrounding wall.
If possible, locate wardrobes against internal partition walls.

3. Insulate and heat your home

Keep your home warm with insulation, draught proofing and heating, this reduces the risk of condensation.
A constant, low level form of heating provides the most economical form of heat and reduces the likelihood of condensation.

How to help yourself

Treat and remove the mould – there are various products on the market that will help, such as fungicidal products available in DIY stores.
Wipe down windows, frames and other affected areas with a fungicidal, (mould killing wash), that carries a Health and Safety Executive ‘Approval Number’. Make sure you follow the manufacturer’s instructions precisely. Dry clean mildewed clothes and shampoo mouldy carpets.
After treating mould affected areas, re-decorate using a good quality fungicidal paint. Where possible remove lining paper and wallpaper, treat the plaster and then paint or paper the area again.
There is a balance between heating and ventilation and a de-humidifier may help.

Cracking up!

Fri, 08 Sep 2023 09:34:36 GMT

The Truth About Subsidence

It is the scariest word in the property owner’s dictionary because you know you will be facing a bill of four figures and your home will be un-saleable until you get the problem sorted out. But subsidence is something you can help to prevent and often is not a problem.

Your home is unlikely to fall down around your ears – even the most famous case of subsidence, the Leaning Tower of Pisa, is still standing!

Calling in the Experts

Do not expect subsidence to be sorted out overnight. The standard procedure is for the Insurer to ask you to appoint your own Building Surveyor or engineer or send in its own expert. A report setting out the extent of the problem and outlining what should be done will be prepared.

In most cases, it is difficult to say exactly what is causing the problem and the Insurer may want to monitor things for several months, if not years. In the past, people rushed to repair their homes only to find cracks re-appearing because the subsidence had not been stopped.

Counting the Cost

Even though your Insurer will pay for the remedial work (after you have been charged an excess of around £1,000), the disruption is very stressful and you are unlikely to be able to move until your home is secure and given clearance.

There are other financial considerations too. Once your home is back to normal, you will probably be stuck with your existing Buildings Insurer (so forget negotiating premiums). And, of course, your homes track history could put potential buyers off. Some buyers walk away as soon as they hear the word subsidence.

That Sinking Feeling

Subsidence is nearly always related to water or lack of it. Typically, low rainfall causes soil under buildings to dry out and shrink. If the shrinkage is uneven, the foundations of your home will sink more in one part than another. This can lead to everything from cracks to walls to separation from the rest of the building. The most vulnerable homes are those on clay soil. The worst affected areas are London and the South East. About 1 in 50 houses in the region is recorded as having suffered from subsidence over the last 25 years.

It is not untypical that about 1 in 5 subsidence claims result from drains leaking into sandy soil. This is something you may be able to spot at an early stage. In any older property, there is a chance that the drains could be leaking. Specialist companies can investigate this for a reasonable cost (from around £250), and it is worth considering if you are worried about subsidence.

The other cause of ground movement is trees, and this is an area where all homeowners should take extra care.

Still Got That Sinking Feeling?

Most cracks are nothing to worry about. In fact, experts now acknowledge that many homes were underpinned “inappropriately” in the 1980’s (some sources suggest the figure could be over half).

You can help to protect your home by gardening with care and maintaining drains and gutters properly.

Contact your Insurer if diagonal cracks (5mm wide or more and wider at one end than the other), appear at the corner of windows or door frames. Other areas of concern are cracks around bay windows and floors that suddenly start to slope.

In most cases, you will be asked to wait for at least a few months while your home is monitored to find out the cause of the problem.

Cracks are usually monitored using 'Tell Tales' but you can measure a crack using our handy print at home crack gauge found here . Simply download the PDF and follow the instructions provided to print off.

Download PDF Crack Gauge

Once printed, simply place the crack gauge against any visible cracks and line up with the Red shaded areas on the back or use the ruler on the front. If there are cracks around your home that you are concerned about please feel free to take a photo and send them to us along with your contact details and we would be happy to help you.

For expert advice and surveying services contact:

Cowie Consulting Limited

Telephone: 01325 480424

Email: info@cowieconsulting.net

How to re-point brickwork

Fri, 07 Jul 2023 15:08:04 GMT

It's important to keep on top of pointing to help protect your home and to improve its' aesthetic appeal so we have put together this guide on how to repoint brickwork in 6 simple steps.

Generally it is recognised that well-built brickwork requires little maintenance, however as a building ages the mortar will start to decay through natural causes or structural movement.

In the event of the above, re-pointing of the brickwork will be required.

Ideally, re-pointing should not be undertaken during the winter as there is danger of frost, but, if there is a need to undertake re-pointing in winter, the work needs to be covered against the elements.

Re-pointing should commence at the top left hand corner of the area to be re-pointed, working across and then downward. It is advisable to work on 2m² at a time.

There are several types of joints for brickwork. For general re-pointing to external brickwork the “weather struck” and “weather struck and cut” joints are most satisfactory for weathering. For older brickwork it is normal practice to try and repeat the original type of joint finish. These are usually a “flush joint” or a “round joint”.

The mix of mortar is an essential part of successful re-pointing and the mix should be carefully chosen to suit the brick type, appearance and exposure conditions.

General applications:

1:1:6 (cement/lime/sand)

Softer facing brick:

1:2:9 (cement/lime/sand)

Hard dense bricks in exposed locations:

1:0.5:3 (cement/lime/sand)

A soft washed or silver sand is best suited to re-pointing work.

The following is a brief outline of the re-pointing procedure.

Specification:

1. Rake out the vertical joints of the brickwork then the horizontal to a depth of approximately 15mm. The remaining mortar but be square.

2. Thoroughly brush the joints with a stiff brush to remove any dust or loose particles.

3. Dampen the surrounding area in order to reduce the suction of the existing mortar and bricks. Be careful not to soak the brickwork.

4. Filling the vertical joints (perpends), first press the mortar in and tuck it into the bed joints above and below the perpend. Next fill the bed joint and bound the perpend. Only a small number of perpends should be completed in advance of the bed joints.

5. During pointing, only a relatively small amount of mortar should be mixed to prevent mortar drying out. Never reconstitute the mortar with more water.

6. Once joints are filled, they should be tooled or cut, according to the type of joint to be used. Brush away loose material with a soft brush.

If the re-pointing is a result of a crack to the wall, it is suggested that the crack is not pointed independently but a panel surround the crack is re-pointed in order to match the re-pointing with the existing.

It is advisable to test the mortar in an out of sight area and let it cure to ensure a good match with the existing mortar is achieved.

If the above brief guide is followed, effective re-pointing should be achieved.

The information provided should only be used prior to discussions with, and approval of, a qualified professional and re-pointing should only be undertaken following correct diagnosis.

For expert advice and surveying services contact us:

Cowie Consulting Limited

01325 480 424

info@cowieconsulting.net

Here are some examples of poor pointing that we have come across recently which could potentially cause problems such as internal damp or eventual failure of the brickwork, therefore it's important to keep on top pointing to protect weather performance and the integrity of your home.

'I Told You Not To Buy It' has raised over £2,100 for Macmillan Cancer Support

Fri, 07 Jul 2023 15:00:06 GMT

Alan Cowie with his book in aid of Macmillan Cancer Support (Image: Peter Barron, Northern Echo)

A lan was recently featured in the Northern Echo discussing his new book 'I Told You Not To Buy It' which so far has raised over £2100 for Macmillan Cancer Support! Initially his target was to reach £3000 but due to its' recent success it's likely to blow this target out of the water.

To leave a donation and get hold of your copy of his book please head to his JustGiving page below https://www.justgiving.com/page/alan-cowie-book

AN INTRODUCTION TO

“I Told You Not To Buy It”

“Well they might be cobwebs to you, but to me…that’s the dreaded dry rot”.

“Those cracks have always been there young man”.

“What do you mean – the tree can stay but the house has to come down”?

Having enjoyed over 50 years in the often ruthless and unexpected fortunes of the property industry, seeing people inherit problems they just never expected and, in some cases, stepping into horrendous and costly situations, as well of course as good and profitable experiences, I thought it was time to share a lifetime of helping and guiding clients through what is said to be the most stressful and expensive time of their lives…buying that dream home, country cottage or corner shop.

I took up my Articled Pupillage to become a Chartered Surveyor on the amazing salary 19s 6d per week in the very early 1960’s with a Firm of Chartered Surveyors and Auctioneers in Bishop Auckland, County Durham which then was a popular route for intending Surveyors to get qualified. Although I failed miserably at being an Articled Pupil, it was a wonderful experience and a fantastic stepping stone.

I became a fully qualified Chartered Surveyor in 1972, then a Fellow and a Chartered Arbitrator being a Partner in a General Practise but then running my own Chartered Building Surveying business for over 40 years.

I grew up as a much-loved, unidentical twin, guided by a very eccentric mother and wheeler dealer father in the once busy Railway Town of Shildon in County Durham in the 1950’s, a heritage which is relevant to how I turned out and where, as an inquisitive child, anything that could be mended was.

There are stories of deceit, Court appearances, finding hidden treasures and acting for some amazing characters.

From attempted money laundering, seller’s concealing defects, busy auctions where there are no real bidders, to the fun and enjoyment of helping people across all social levels. This has included Hells Angels, ladies of the night (and day) an Arabian Prince, the Landed Gentry and of course, you.

I have addressed many audiences as an Expert on property defects and their solutions, went into theatricals to do a two-man stand-up comedy show with a fellow Chartered Surveyor (Roderick Burtt) to a full house at the Civic Theatre (now The Hippodrome) in Darlington, which was probably the scariest situation that I have ever been in.

There are many bizarre stories to tell, humorous anecdotes and of course, guidance for would be purchasers of property from the smallest Noddy house to the palatial country home. Prisons to Hotels, smallholdings to cannabis farms, but why is that approximately only one-third of Purchasers get an appropriate survey carried out on what is probably the most expensive thing they will ever buy.

“Putting yourselves at risk” is so easy as eventually most of us become involved in property transactions from first time buyers to those down-sizing or up-sizing. From those wanting that dream home to do-it-yourselfers, property developers, Solicitors, Estate Agents, Property Lenders and caring parents will all glean something from this book, as well as a definite eye opener for students joining the profession and practicing Surveyors.

Research suggests there are no other publications that cover the many pitfalls of property acquisition referred by historical memoirs, many explained here in a non-technical way but with a humorous wrap-around.

There are a number of professionally prepared illustrations exploiting the humour of the many situations I have stepped into, which all add to the intrigue and guidance that is required to help the unaware or those just interested in buying property.

I am truly grateful to being in a profession (Royal Institution of Chartered Surveyors) that has given me such enjoyment and pleasure working with some really talented people, some very impressive ladies with whom I have worked, the luck to be associated with Business Partner, Peter Fall, a loving and sympathetic wife, Jenny, and three amazing children, Jonathan, Matthew and Emma.

Having recently been supported by MacMillan Nurses, any proceeds will be going to The Friarage Hospital, Northallerton, North Yorkshire DL6 1JG.

Thank you.

J A Cowie, FRICS ACIArb